Bouillabaisse originated from the fish stew made by Marseille fishermen when they came back to port.   Unable to sell all of their catch to restaurants, they would stew the bony rockfish with garlic and fennel for their own consumption. In the 18thand 19th century the recipes became more refined with the addition of other fish and vegetables, saffron, and Provençal herbs. 

Today the ingredients of a traditional Marseille bouillabaisse vary depending upon what fish are available that day and the taste of the chef. There are many disputes as to which recipes are the most authentic, starting with which fish should be included.  Rascasse,a bony fish which lives in the calanque is essential according to the Bouillabaisse charter drawn up in 1980. Chefs then choose from grondin (sea robin); conger, lotte (monkfish), Saint-Pierre (John Dory), vive (weever) according to their liking, many mixing all six fish in their recipe.  Great attention is payed to the stewing time for each type of fish, so each maintains its texture.   Other ingredients in the broth include potatoes, garlic, onions, ripe tomatoes, bouquet garni, cayenne pepper and local olive oil.

In Marseille, the broth is served first in a soup plate with slices of bread and rouille, a spicy mayonnaise made with egg yolk, garlic olive oil, saffron and cayenne pepper.   The fish is served separately on a large platter which each diner individually to additional bowls of broth which are served throughout the meal.   

Over the years I have enjoyed amazing bouillabaisse at different restaurants in Marseille: l’Epuisette, Restaurant Michel, Chez Fonfon, all of which I would recommend, in addition to Chez Gilbert in Cassis, the first restaurant I visited post lockdown in 2021 for a most enjoyable Bouillabaisse.