I adore the Luberon all year round as each season brings a selection of traditional Provençal specialities and fresh produce to the fore: figs, herbs and olives in the autumn; truffles, foie gras, walnuts in the winter months; and of course the strawberries, cherries, tomatoes, apricots, melons, blackberries of the spring and summer months.
I have discovered many specialty dishes and distinctive varieties of fruits and vegetables in the Luberon. In addition to foraging and harvesting the herbs, nuts, fruits and berries grown at La Raffine, we also enjoy the produce of our own potager. What joy to watch fresh produce ripen and then select the bounty of the day just as it reaches its peak of perfection.
The rich lifestyle of Provence is a constant pleasure and inspiration for a life lived more closely to nature.
There is something undeniably romantic about sunny screens of the vendange which has started this week in Chateauneuf-du-Pape, the most celebrated cru of the southern Rhone. The appellation takes its name from the time when the poppies were in Avignon and many of the wines are from some of the oldest vines in France. The estates select from a range of 13-15 grape varieties to create some outstanding wines which share the characteristic notes of fresh red and black cherries, raspberries and black pepper. Recently I visited three of the best estates: Chateau Nerthes, Chateaux Vieux Télégraphe, Chateau Mont Redon to sample the products of their beautiful terroirs.
Aubergines (or eggplants as they are known in North America) are the ultimate summer vegetable, adding colour to the market stands all through the summer. Look for a smaller aubergine (less water) and one with a dark glossy skin and a firm texture when touched. Loved by chefs for the ability to taken on flavours, they are easy to prepare for the barbecue or as an ingredient in such Provencal specialties as ratatouille or caviar d'abergine (an eggplant dip) which is much enjoyed by the locals in Provence.
Summer’s arrival unveils a new selection of marine delicacies in Provence: la dorade (sea-bream), les sardines, la sole, les anchois, le mulet, le rouget, le bar, le maquereau, le lieu jaune (pollock), le merlan (whiting), turbot, le thon blanc are all local and at their best right now.
One of my favorite fish in summer is dorade grise, a sought after salt-water fish, native to the Mediterranean, known for gracing the classic bouillabaisse de Marseille, but even more delicious when grilled or baked, as it stays succulent with full rich flavour.
A few years back we were greet in the Spring to the screeching sounds of a male pheasant. Apparently he was seeking to attract hens to his domaine newly set-up on La Raffine. His screeching and strutting about every morning and evening quickly became a source of amusement and we sought to learn as much as we could about our new neighbour.
Years later, Alphonse thinks he owns the place. In some cultures, the pheasant is considered a symbol of good fortune, abundance, and prosperity, as well as a representation of beauty, elegance, and grace so we take it as a compliment that he has decided to make his residence here.
As the temperature becomes more temperate, it may be tempting to join a match and there are good courts nearby in Goult. The fee is €60 for a week of access and Veronique +33682888404 will give you a key with which you can book a court. There is also a coach Max+33664663778 although he can get quite booked. .
Alternatively there is a tennis coach in Bonnieux, named Sandrine+33661546487.
Finely chopped chives add freshness and flavour to your summer recipes. Always added at the last moment, try them in green salads, creamy dressings and cheeses. La ciboulette also goes very well with eggs, as one of the “fine herbs” used to create an omelette aux fines herbes, along with parsley, tarragon and chervil. You can also add a little chopped chives to the scrambled eggs just before serving.
No one could do without la ciboulette to make a green sauce, one of my all time favourite side dishes as a dip as a fresh sauce for fish or pork or together with just about anything from the BQ.
We have 5 heritage cherry trees on the property: 2 trees (Bigarreau Coeur de Pigeon) with bright red cherries which I eat straight from the trees and 3 trees (Bigarreau Napoleon) with rosy yellow cherries, which are delicious to cook with (and don’t stain your fingers when you have to pit them).
We had a bumper crop of cherries this year. We just couldn’t pick them fast enough. To extend the season, and prolong our enjoyment I make a quick and easy compote which I then enjoy into the autumn on ice cream, yogurt. etc.
The first artichokes from our garden!. As is the tradition in Provence, I picked these young before the choke develops and was able to eat them whole prepared in one of Provence’s most iconic spring time dishes: artichauts a la barigoule, braising them in white wine and olive oil along with with onions, carrots and a bouquet garni of parsley, thyme and bay leaves. . Fresh yet satisfyingly rich with flavour. .From herein it will feature on our spring menu
My first restaurant meal post lock-down was a bouillabaisse: the famous fish stew from Marseille. The ingredients of a traditional Marseille bouillabaisse vary depending upon what fish are available that day and the taste of the chef leading to many disputes about which is la vraie bouillabaisse, but I have yet to be disappointed by our regular pilgrimage to the coast for the delicious signature dish of Marseille.
When thyme begins to flower in early spring, it is at its most aromatic. This versatile herb is delicious in chicken broth or marinades for fish, lamb, veal; Thyme also goes well with potatoes or cheese and works well in butter. As an infusion, you can use fresh or dried thyme. To add flavour to a salad consider flavouring your vegetable oil. .
It is mid February and the almond trees on the property are blossoming. The sight of their graceful beauty fills me with joy. The white-pink petals are scattering through the garden, a clear sign that spring is on its way. After flowering in late winter and pollination by bees, the fruits develop and can be eaten green and fresh between May and July, or in shell in September and October.
We have three varieties of olives on the property: les Picholines, les Nicoises and the Aglandau. We picked all three in November, and brought most to the Moulin St Augustin to be processed into oil. I also tried my hand at curing and brining some of our harvest for table olives. A long and tricky process that has renewed my respect for the artisans selling their olives in the markets.
All winter we have been surprised and delighted to see sheep and goats grazing in the vineyards dotted throughout the valley around us. In the spring the animals will be brought to higher elevations, the ritual transhumance following a blessing of the animals. I look forward to viewing the shepherds and border collies herding their troops up to the higher hills of the Luberon and come Easter we will surely be serving the a leg of Sisteron lamb.
One of the best ways to get into the mood of Provence is with a sip of pastis. Associated particularly with Marseille pastis is today an intrinsic part of life in Provence. Yellow when poured straight from the bottle, it turns milky white when water is added. Here in the Luberon, the locals enjoy their pastis as a Mauresque, a cocktail of pastis water and orgeat syrup ( a sweet syrup made from almonds, sugar, rose water or orange flower water.)
Many of the many different goat cheeses in France are produced by Provençal artisans during the spring and summer months, after the birth of the kids in February/March.
The cheeses can be enjoyed in different ways according to the degree of ripening. A dry goat cheeses is grated on pasta, a creamy goat cheese heated on toast with a spring salad, a fresh cheese used in dessert recipes. Some have AOC/AOP designations: Banon, Picodon, Brousse de Rove.
The Provençal landscape is dotted with cherry trees: the rather tart rosy golden Rainier and Napoleon cherries destined to become candied fruit (a specialty of Apt which traces its history to the papacy of Avignon in the 14th century)and ideal for making jam; and the juicy bright red Summit and Reverchon cherries which are delicious eaten fresh from the tree.
The strawberries of Carpentras are the first of the season, signalling the start of spring in Provence. Several varieties are grown and more than a dozen varieties are sold on the markets so the strawberry season can last from early spring into late autumn. Prized French variety the Gariguette is grown in Carpentras and is is favoured for its sweet flavour and aroma.
Sisteron Lamb is the pride of Provence and the centrepiece of the Provençal Easter meal prepared with garden fresh herbs and served with steamed fresh green beans or flageolets.
With oak trees sprinkled through our own property we have a natural truffière and although I must admit our own harvest is at best unpredictable. This year the locals have told us to wait until February to find the best and largest truffles. Next week our local hunter will arrive with his dog to sniff them out from their hiding places (which can change from year to year.
La Daube de Provence is a hearty stew made from beef, lamb or wild boar simmered in red wine, carrots, black olives, orange zest a bouquet garni of herbs from Provence (thyme, rosemary, bay leaf)). A poor man’s dish with many regional variations including la daube avignonnaise made with lamb and white wine. A special comforting treat on a cold day cooked in served in a traditional daubière.
The Vaucluse is the top producer of table grapes in France and the Muscat du Ventoux are the most popular black table grape. Table grapes have less acidity and thinner skin than grapes cultivated for wine and the Muscat du Ventoux are particularly sweet and juicy: the perfect before-bed snack in a small bowl of yogurt. Grapes are the only fruit containing melatonin so you are boosting your sleep cycle too.
The season for figs is short. For a couple of weeks in mid-September I devour as many as I can. Sweet, fragrant and juicy, figs team up very well with other ingredients: honey, yoghurt and toasted nuts; fresh young goat's cheese; salty prosciutto; tangy blue cheeses and even anchovies.
You can buys figs in the market but it is best to eat them fresh from the tree if you can find one. Watch the country roads as they grow like weeds in Provence.
The variety of tomatoes available in the Luberon is a joy to experience. I have my favourites and like to blend several different sorts in a brightly coloured tomato salad. Below is a guide to some of my favourites (including some of the minis we grow in our new potager) : red, orange, yellow, green and black and other heirloom tomatoes popular in the markets along with suggestions on how they are best served.
So many choices when preparing a salad nicoise: mesclun or gem lettuce?; scallions or thinly sliced raw onion?; olives Niçoise or olives Provençales?; tomatoes cérises or quartered vine tomatoes?; anchovies (fresh?, in oil or salted?)
While it is well loved throughout the world, no one seems to be able to agree on the definitive salade Niçoise. This is how we prepare it at La Raffine.
The Provence lavender fields are among the best in the world, and they’re certainly the most famous. Come early summer, when the spring poppies have all but disappeared, bright lavender flowers transform landscape into a patchwork of colour. Be warned that season is short and at its best in early July. The best nearby place for viewing the expansive upper Luberon lavender fields is off the D36, en route from Lacoste to the Point Julien. where there is an field easily approached for photography, with less tourists.
Melons are one of the glories of Provence; their sweet and juicy fruit, the result of the 300 days of Provençal sunshine. Cavaillon has been nown for centuries for its melons. You will find melons from Cavaillon everywhere in the Luberon, but choosing one that is perfectly ripe is an art learned by experience. I find the best way is to smell the ‘navel’, it should have a strong melon smell, another sign is if there are cracks around the little stem, and the stem is ready to come off.
This year I really discovered feves, not sure why I didn’t notice them before. The Provençaux eat them raw (especially early in the season when they are small and tender). I prefer them boiled quickly in hot water and then peeled to add to pasta or a salad. . I also love this Barbouillade of beans and artichoke hearts: from: La Cuisinère Provençal, a 19th century cookbook of Provencal recipes by J.B. Reboul.
The long summer evenings are filled with music in the Luberon. The festivals season is underway.
Gordes: Les Saisons de la voix
Lacoste: Pierre Cardin’s Festival Lacoste includes concerts and theatre in the Château et the Carrières.
Ménerbes, Bonnieux et Gordes: Les Musicales du Luberon focussed on women musical artists.
Lourmarin: Festival des Musiques D’été: held is the relative intimacy of the château,
Cherry blossoms dot the landscape of the Luberon in early Spring. By early June the trees are laden with ripe fruit. Cherries are loved fresh f but also in jams, conserves, liqueurs, and desserts. Apt is known for its candied cherries.
The Provençal Christmas officially kicks off on December 4, the feast day of Sainte Barbe when wheat seeds are planted in shallow saucers which will eventually decorate the dining table on Christmas Eve.
The herbs from your garden are best when used freshly picked, but only a few hardy herbs like rosemary and sage can be picked year round, even in the relatively temperate Provence. Harvesting your garden herbs in early autumn for drying, freezing or oil infusion allows you to enjoy the produce of the herb garden year-round.
The truffle season in Provence runs from November to mid-March. A true joy to discover during the Lubéron winter months. Truffles are loved for their unique aroma and taste, and are typically enjoyed in simple traditional Provencal dishes like a brouillade aux truffes.
Every Autumn, for one month from mid-October, It’s harvest time for olives in the Luberon. Eagerly awaited by both amateurs and professionals, it is a tradition in Provence to bring the freshly picked olives from your own garden to the local mill for pressing. Each valley produces a different oil with subtle differences in fragrance and flavour.
Wild blackberry bushes can be found on many country roads in the region. We have a hedge the full length of the property and each year we enjoy the wild berries at the end of August. Smaller and less sweet than the commercially cultivated varieties, I prefer the taste and feel a primal satisfaction each year as I collect my daily rations. In the 15th century they were served as an hors d’oeuvre with sugar for dipping. Today a blackberry crumble is easy and delicious way to serve