Food Shopping
After years of experimenting, I have found my favourite speciality shops in a radius of 15 km from my home. Many have been in business from my first days in the region, others are new additions which I hope will succeed. In the season there is a charming but tiny épicerie/boulangerie serving excellent coffee in the centre of the village. For bigger shops below are my favourites.
I never miss a visit to Malavard when I am in the region. A family run food-shop with top quality meats, game, poultry and charcuterie in addition to an array of prepared Provencal dishes like lapin a la moutarde made fresh everyday. Worth the wait if there is a line-up on market day.
I always plan a menu with them when it is a special occasion (Christmas and Easter) and order ahead. I have never been disappointed.
Two nearby espicierie when Lacoste is shut:
Lumières - Epicerie de Lumieres: an all-round grocery shop which is good for bread, vegetables, cheese (excellent fresh mozzarella), olives and tapenade, charcuterie, water/soft-drinks but also general grocery cleaning, drogerie. +33490724023
Goult - Epicerie Maurel: Madame Maurel's award-winning 'épicerie has daily necessities as well as a range of provençal delicacies, wines and fresh local fruit & vegetables. +33 4 90 72 20 02
Cozy Fruits à Coustellet is a high quality green grocer which also offers a section of cheeses, cold meats, groceries and wines.
There is a home delivery service within a radius of 15 km around Coustellet which is free for any purchase over € 50.
Order your products the day before, exclusively by telephone on 0490740113 from Tuesday to Saturday from 8:30 am to 6:00 pm.
Delivieries to Lacoste between 9:00 a.m. and 1:00 p.m. the next day. in Coustellet, Maubec, Robion, Cavaillon, Cheval-Blanc, Lagnes, Gordes, Lacoste, les Beaumettes, Joucas ..
My preferred cheese shop with a wide range of regional chèvre, fromages de brebis and well-loved gourmet cheeses from all-over France. Tasting menu served at lunch with 5 cheeses, a green salad a glass of wine, café for 16€.
Open Tuesday to Saturday.+33 (0)4.90.04.01.78
A farmer’s collective selling local produce direct to the public. Open Monday through Saturday, a very welcome extension of the farmer’s market. Fruit, vegetables, meat, beer and wine, cheese and other specialties with a good selection of bio produce.
The best patisserie is just outside Coustellet across from the Musée de Lavande on the way to Gordes. Many local speciality breads, cakes and biscuits in addition to macarons and individual portions of ice-creams and sorbets. Open Tues to Saturday all-day and Sunday mornings
Originally a 16th century flour mill, the Moulin Saint Augustin produces olive oil from Aglandau olives which exude a lovely scent of artichokes. In the attractive shop with English speaking staff, olive oil tastings are offered They also have an impressive selection of olive wood bowls, utensils and other local handicrafts in addition to tapenade and other local delicacies +33490724366
A new addition to the good quality food shops in Coustellet: an excellent fish and seafood shop which serves shellfish on the terrace overlooking the farmer’s market. +33 (0) 432529130
A delightful boutique which offers tasting of their wide range of balsamic creations. Delightful concoctions using 100% natural ingredients and broad range to flavours to raise the making of vinegar to a fine art. +33432521640
Pottery shopping
The Luberon is well known for its pottery with excellent shops in Roussillon, Apt and Bonnieux. Watch for the pottery markets. There is an outstanding market in Bonnieux every year at Easter and a market for pottery in Apt in August. Apt is known for its ‘mixed clay’ ceramics, a technique pioneered in the 19thcentury in Apt which creates kaleidoscope of colours in marble like patterns in the clay. Our home dishes are a traditional 19th century design, bought at Ceramique Pichon in Uzes.
Our main service (celadon) was collected over many years from Céramique Pichon in Uzès where they have been been making pottery since 1802 with beautiful glazes and shapes. They specialise in braiding and other decorative forms. A family business with a fascinating history which is in the throes of an important restructure.. +33466221186.
One can still find samples on auctions and in the antique markets from time to time. Hopefully they will reopen their workshop and store soon.
Apt became a centre for ceramics in the eighteenth century linked to the abundance of its clays and ochres pigments. The technique of marbling different became a speciality. The traditional creations were often in the Baroque style of Louis XVI, decorated with foliage, fruits and small figurines. of Louis XVI inspiration.
Local producers like Atélier Rigo, source their pigments from the last active ocher producer, located in Gargas near Apt and combine other oxides such as cobalt, manganese.+33(0)4 90 05 70 39
There is also a showroom in Coustellet, open on Sunday when the market is on.
The iconic pedestaled pottery seen in the villages and gardens of Provence is actually inspired by the Medici style vases of Italy. A community of artisans in Anduze, a village in the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France, are keeping alive the tradition and the shape is now very making the traditional vases with new glazes and finishes in addition to the classic style. The shape has also become popular for glasses, candles etc in addition to the traditional vases.
About a 90 minute drive from La Raffine, a visit to Anduze makes for an interesting day trip. There is even a Route du Vase d’Anduze to help you explore over a dozen different workshops around the village and the nearby towns.
I usually find what I want in La Poterie de la Madeleine which is reviving the work of the 18th century potters. Route de Nîmes, 30350 Lezan
Tél. : 04 66 61 63 44
It is natural that there are many pottery shops in Roussillon, given its history and association with ochre pigments often used in ceramics . Used as a natural paint by prehistoric man, ocher was very popular at the time of the French Revolution and it is having a revival right now. You can visit Le Sentier des Ocres, a former ocher quarry and walk trails through the brilliantly coloured sands.. It's caused by iron oxide deposits in the sandy soil,
Then shop at the Ocher Gallery, Haut Village, Place du Castrum +33490056299
Courses and workshop are available on how to work with the natural pigments at the Ochre Conservatory in the old Mathieu factory created in 1920.
Local wineries:
There are two AOC’s produced locally: Côtes du Luberon AOC and Côtes de Ventoux AOC
Archeological discoveries of wine making equipment have dated that wine has been produced in the area at least since around 30 AD. Red wine production dominates (60%), followed by the famed rosés, and rarer white wines, account for only 4%.
Reds: are mostly from Grenache noir, Syrah, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Carignan; Counoise, Gamay noir, Pinot noir are also possible. Rosé: The same varieties are used as for the red, and up to 20% of the allowed varieties for white wine may be used. Whites: are from Clairette blanche, Grenache blanc, Ugni blanc, Roussanne and Marsanne
Watch for wines with the French organic label “AB” which recognises winemakers who safeguard the the essence of the soil and its fertility and use methods methods used which are in perfect harmony with nature (and are better for your body).
Château la Canorgue has won numerous awards for its wines.
A family property for over 200 years, Jean-Pierre Margan, began using organic methods and biodynamics to produce high quality wines in the seventies. The Chateaux was built on the remains of an ancient Roman villa and it takes its name from the underground channels the Romans hollowed out from the rock to collect water. The owners of the domaine were raised to the status of counts by Pope Benoit XIV. Tel +33 (0)4 90 75 81 01 Wine shop open Monday to Saturday. Closed for lunch hours during the winter.
The dynamic mayor of Menerbes, is also the founder of Domaine Ruffinatto. The son of winemakers, Christian started the domaine in 2001 and his natural wines today are among the most loved in the Luberon.
I am a big fan of his fresh round white wines ( a blend of vermentino, roussanne et clairette). His red wines also have many fans for their original combination of Syrah and la counoise, a rustic grape overlooked by other winemakers. Wine tastings can be organised +33630809520
This beautiful 28 hectares domaine sits above the Luberon Valley across from Bonnieux and Lacoste.
Historically this estate was the property of King Rene of Provence who established a permanent art glass exposition in 1470 (hence the name).
Jacques and Veronique Maubert produce organic wine: 4 reds, 3 whites and 3 roses. The Ventoux Rose is praised by wine critics and sells out by August every year. The reds are akin to Rhone Cru coming from very old vines planted red clay studded.
This is a quality grower of wines at great value. Their rosé Domaine de la Verrière receives great praise +33(0)4 90 72 20 88
Aureto has extensive vineyards mostly located in the Mont Ventoux appellation but also in the Luberon appellation. Created in 2007 by enthusiasts of the region, they are passionate about their wine-making and they will allow you to tour the vineyard (every Wednesday) and they will host workshops and wine-tasting. Excellent whites and reds. A close relationship with the Domaine de la Coquillade, the luxury hotel and restaurnant where you can enjoy the wines and food pairings.
Château Lacoste is a vineyard dedicated to modern creativity where the finest wines are produced in a surrounding which also houses exceptional artworks. You can walk through 180 hectares of wooded valleys and and vines discovering the art of world famous modern artists and architects. Tours of the art and architecture can be combined with a tasting visit to the winery. Excellent dining in Francis Mallman’s restaurant or le Cafe de Tadao Ando. I am a fan of their rosés.
Created from an 8 acre farm at the foot of Menerbes, the Domaine de la Citadelle is a wonderful location for a wine-tasting and informal dining (salads and tapas) in the charming bistro and cave a manger. There is even a fascinating museum dedicated to cork-screws, a botanical garden to visit and a gift-store sourced from local artisans.
The wines are 60% red are elegant mostly from Syrah mixed with Grenache. In the white wines, Roussanne, Grenache, Clairette and Rolle are complemented by Chardonnay and Viognier, for good acidity and minerality. In the rosés, Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre are combined. La Domaine de la Citadelle is open year-round (hours change depending on the season). +334.90.72.41.58
Local Fashion Shops
There are a few excellent boutiques for fashion in the Luberon, which are always a destination when I am in the region. Otherwise I head to Aix-en-Provence known as the 21st suburb of Paris with its many pedestrian streets full of high end fashion boutiques. Head to the Cours Mirabeau and explore all the side streets and shop to your heart’s content.
Women’s fashion with a good selection of Aspesi, Hâche. Beautiful accessories. English speaking owner.
Beautiful stretch linen fabric in classic jackets, dresses and trousers with creative accessories. Maria will give you a warm welcome and helpful styling suggestions.
My favourite clothes shop in the Luberon. This village house has several levels of men’s and women’s fashion, accessories and home decoration. Well curated selection from French and Italian designers like Piazza Sempione, Valentino Red, Hâche, Tods with some local French designers.….Good assortment of swimwear, shoes on the top level.. Open Tuesday to Saturday but closed for lunch hour.
Where to: gift shopping
La Roumanière is a charming boutique (confiturerie, biscuiterie et miellerie) in Robion selling traditional jams, condiments, cakes and biscuits. Available in pretty baskets and packaging. We always include at least one item in our welcome pack. Concours Général Agricole 2019. Lovely gifts to bring back a taste of Provence.
A charming mix of clothing made from natural linens, household items and stationery inspired by Scanda design. it is a must visit and is open on Sunday’s during the farmer’s market too.
Amongst the student’s studios in Lacoste, SHOPSCAD is open to the public to sell artwork (paintings, jewellery etc) from former students, faculty and alumni. A good source for original mementos of Lacoste.
In the tiny town of Lumieres, Edith Mezard is known for her custom-made pillows and linens hand -embroidered with monograms or words. For the last two years she has also hosted Casa Lopez in an adjacent pop-up shop. It is a treasure trove for gift seekers in a beautiful cadre.
An épicerie fine with beautifully packaged and presented Provencal gifts and delicatessen: kitchen accessories, olive oils, balsamic vinegars, honey, nougat, almonds, calissons and beyond. +33967232462
Where to buy Good Teas and Coffees
Our go to shop for quality coffee and tea. Royal Moka carries many different varieties of coffees and teas including tea gift packs from Danmann. They also serve good cappuccinos, teas with breakfast. +33 4 90 74 66 73
An excellent team shop with many varieties of teas, tisanes and accessories. The range is huge including many green and black teas from Asia and different tisanes. The staff is knowledgeable and they have a interesting range of accessories. There are a few tables at the back of the shop to take a short pause with a pot of tea.
Shopping in the Outdoor Markets
Provence is rightly known for its outdoor markets which are many and varied. Virtually every village has a market day which may involve a few stands at the centre of town. Generally the quality is very good particularly in the farmer’s markets (watch for Marché Paysan). Enjoy this video produced by Diane and Rich Boufford when they stayed at La Raffine in May. As two consummate foodies, it is an amazing round-up of the joys of shopping in the nearby markets and towns and the amazing cuisine resulting from their daily visits to the markets.
My favourites are the Saturday market in Apt and the Marché Paysan on Sunday in Coustellet. Both are musts for me when I am in town.
I find the Provençal markets irresistible. A visit to the Luberon is simply not complete without a market visit to stock up on everything in season. Bring your basket and enjoy. I am pretty loyal to the Apt market on Saturday and the farmer’s market in Coustellet on Sunday.
Other’s worth a visit:
Friday morning: Lourmarin or Bonnieux
Thursday morning: Menerbes or Goult or Robion / Cavaillon (evening);
Tuesday morning: Lacoste (tiny) or Apt Farmer’s Market
Monday morning - Cavaillon
A little further afield: Velleron has a farmer’s market (marché paysan) every evening at 6 in the summer and every other day at 4:30 in the winter.
If there is one market to visit, visit le marché d’Apt. Every Saturday, since the twelfth century, even in the heart of winter, the market occupies the whole of the town.
At the height of the season, more than 300 exhibitors, selling all manner of seasonal fruits and vegetables; flower markets flourishing at both ends of the old town; crafts, fabrics, pottery scattered along the main street. All that one could want to buy complete with a multitude of terraces for an early morning coffee/croissant.
Fashion Shopping
For the best of French fashion head to these world class shopping areas.
Aix-en-Provence is sometimes known as the 21st arrondissement of Paris and the fashion shopping is the best in the region. I prefer the pedestrian shopping area off the sunny side of the Cours Mirabeau:
rue Marius Reinaud - Zadig et Voltaire, Sonia Rykiel, Maje
rue Fabrot, - Robert Clergerie, First, Gerard Darel.
If driving park in the lots nearby (Parking Carnot or Parking Mignet) and you can then stroll to the shops. Street parking is virtually impossible to find.
Well located near the Old Port and freshly renovated, the shopping on and around Rue Paradis features major luxury brands (Kenzo, Sandro, ZAPA, IKKS, Lacoste, Montblanc) alongside newcomers and heritage stores like Maison Empéreur. Many shops are also open on Sunday.
For utterly unique shopping experiences in the area:
Maison Empereur, selling the best of French housewares, linens and hardware since 1827 in a multi-storey store on rue des Récollettes
Pere Blaize, herboristerie. Dedicated to la phytotherapie since 1815. Stocked with teas, elixirs and medicinal plants. rue Meolan.
Shop for well known brands at lower prices in this well maintained outlet mall from McArthur Glen. Ralph Lauren, Armani, Karl Lagerfeld have big spaces and even a new Prada store is planned. Easy parking and access to autoroute
Local shopping hotspots
If shopping is one of your favourite activities there are a few towns nearby which you will enjoy. Charming pedestrian shopping areas with chic boutiques and colourful cafes and bistros make for a very pleasant day of shopping for fashion, decor or local crafts and antiques. Lourmarin, Isle-sur-la-Sorgue and Les Baux are all charming shopping centres for all the chic bibelots and souvenirs you could wish for
Many independent boutiques with original merchandise. Fashion, accessories, crafts, decor. Lourmarin is a shopper’s delight.
The village of the Baux de Provence is situated in the heart of the Alpilles and is labelled as on of the most beautiful in France. A rich cultural history and beautiful setting are the perfect backdrop to a days shopping in the village’s unique boutiques
In addition to the antique shops and the brocante every Sunday morning, Isle-su-la-sorgue has many independent boutiques for fashion, homewares, gifts and local crafts which are also worth a visit.
L’Isle-sur-la-sorgue is the mecca for antique lovers with many antique emporiums and boutiques. There are two huge international antique fairs held in L’isle at Easter and mid-August which are a bi-annual ritual and the Sunday morning brocante is worth a visit. While prices are a little higher than the many village vide-greniers, the quality is typically very good and the selection also.
Less well known and a little further afield is the antique market in Villeneuve-les-avignon, in my opinion one of the best markets for antiques in the region. It takes place every Saturday with easy parking near by. A treat and the town is worthy of a visit.