The Provencal culinary culture is very rich and can be experienced in a variety of dining places all within a hour’s drive: from the very relaxed snacks and simple meals which are a short walk away in the village of Lacoste; to the elevated cuisine of the neighbourhood restaurants and bistros; and beyond to the very fine dining of the gastronomic destinations. I would encourage you to sample a variety and try the traiteurs/delicatessens who offer delicious prepared cuisine for home dining.
A short list of the classic Provençal specialities includes: daube (a classic stew with meat braised in wine); bouillabaisse (a seafood stew originally made by Marseille fisherman); ratatouille (a vibrant stew of local summer vegetables : aubergine, tomatoes, courgettes), l’aioli (a garlic mayonnaise served with boiled fish, eggs and vegetables); pissaladiere (caramelised onions, black olives and anchovies on a thin pizza-like crust); salade nicoise (with tuna, eggs, anchovies, olives and tomatoes on mixed greens) ; soupe au pistou (a heart vegetable soupe fragrant with basil and garlic); beignets de fleurs de courgette (zucchini flowers battered and deep fried); fougasse (a type of flatbread baked with cheese, olives, and charcuterie). (see a collection of blog posts daily life for recipes and or more information on what the locals eat and drink in the Luberon).
In addition to the specialities I love the Mediterranean fish which are delicious for home grilling and feature in the menus of most restaurants: red mullet (rouget barbet) seabream (dorade), John Dory (Saint-Pierre) and seabass (loup de mer) are excellent and are also some of fish used in a bouillabaisse in addition to rockfish (rascasse); also sole, swordfish (espadon), mackerel (maquereau), Bluefin tuna (thon), monkfish (lotte), even anchovies (anchois), sardines are ‘local’ and delicious .
The astonishing variety and quality of the regional produce available in Provence has attracted an abundance of young chefs to the region, making it one of the most exciting gastronomic destinations in France. Whether these young chefs are inventing new recipes or bringing their creativity to refresh the well-loved classics, the cuisine is of high quality, the restaurants are well situated often with very pretty terraces and views, and the prices are more reasonable than one finds in urban centres.
Below is a guide to my favorite places to eat and drink, including both casual neighbourhood spots and gastronomic destinations which I return to year after year. Please note that with the exception of the cafes/brasseries in Lacoste, typically reservations are a must, particularly in the season and most bistros and restaurants are quite strict about their opening hours which tend to be from 12:00 to 1:30 and 19:00 to 21:00. Many restaurants are open only for the evening and most are closed for a couple of days during the week, so planning ahead is important if you do not want to be disappointed.
Simple and Relaxed Dining in Lacoste
When convenience is a priority, a simple snack or a casual meal is a short walk away in the village of Lacoste: :
Dining Out - Neighbourhood
The choices for dining out in the neighbouring villages ranges from informal local bistros to elegant restaurants serving gastronomie. Below is a selection of our favorite places in the neighbourhood (10-30 minutes drive) .
Dining Out - Gastronomic Destinations
I love exploring the all areas of the region and when visiting I have found some exceptional restaurants, often 'etoilé’ with a Michelin star or two. Some are a little further afield (up to an hour and a half away) but if you are planning to see the sites in Nimes, Cassis, Aix-en-Provence, Marseille etc these are the restaurants I would recommend. You can also consider them as destinations in themselves, worth the trip simply to enjoy the restaurant and its surroundings.
Where to buy Good Teas and Coffees
Shopping in the Outdoor Markets
Provence is rightly known for its outdoor markets which are many and varied. Virtually every village has a market day which may involve a few stands at the centre of town. Generally the quality is very good particularly in the farmer’s markets (watch for Marché Paysan). Enjoy this video produced by Diane and Rich Boufford when they stayed at La Raffine in May. As two consummate foodies, it is an amazing round-up of the joys of shopping in the nearby markets and towns and the amazing cuisine resulting from their daily visits to the markets.
My favourites are the Saturday market in Apt and the Marché Paysan on Sunday in Coustellet. Both are musts for me when I am in town.
Food Shopping
After years of experimenting, I have found my favourite speciality shops in a radius of 15 km from my home. Many have been in business from my first days in the region, others are new additions which I hope will succeed such as the new supermarket Proxi open 7/7 in the centre of Lacoste alongside the local épiceries in Lumières or Goult. Like all the best independent épiceries they offers a little of everything and charming to visit and browse.
Local wineries:
There are two AOC’s produced locally: Côtes du Luberon AOC and Côtes de Ventoux AOC
Archeological discoveries of wine making equipment have dated that wine has been produced in the area at least since around 30 AD. Red wine production dominates (60%), followed by the famed rosés, and rarer white wines, account for only 4%.
Reds: are mostly from Grenache noir, Syrah, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Carignan; Counoise, Gamay noir, Pinot noir are also possible. Rosé: The same varieties are used as for the red, and up to 20% of the allowed varieties for white wine may be used. Whites: are from Clairette blanche, Grenache blanc, Ugni blanc, Roussanne and Marsanne
Watch for wines with the French organic label “AB” which recognises winemakers who safeguard the the essence of the soil and its fertility and use methods methods used which are in perfect harmony with nature (and are better for your body).
