The truffle season in Provence runs from November to mid-March. A true joy to discover during the Lubéron winter months. Known as the Diamant Noir and living up to their name at 800€ and upwards a kilo, truffles are loved for their unique aroma and taste, and are typically enjoyed in simple traditional Provencal dishes like a brouillade aux truffes. (my recipe below)

 Hidden in the warm limestone of the Vaucluse, under oak trees or chestnut and hazel trees, truffles are respected for their mysterious and capricious nature. Hunters (and their specially trained dogs) must sniff them out from beneath the soil and the truffle’s hiding places change year to year.

With oak trees sprinkled through our own property we have a natural truffière and I have found truffles under our oak trees in the past although I must admit our own harvest is at best unpredictable.   

Storing truffles is challenging and the local family wisdom varies. Some say to keep them in rice, or to immerse them in oil; others prefer to freeze truffles or to refrigerate in a sealed glass container.

My advice is that you must use them quickly.  Truffles do not age well and begin to lose their aroma as soon as you take them from the ground. If a truffle is stored for too long its aroma evolves to smell more like petrol-which can be a huge disappointment.  

HOW TO INFUSE THE FRESH AROMA OF TRUFFLES

 Most important to the success of your truffle dishes is to take 48 hours to infuse the initial fresh aroma of the truffle in the butter, eggs, cream, cheese or what ever other ingredients you will be using in your recipe. 

Butter: alternate slices of butter and truffles. Seal with cellophane wrap and keep refrigerated until used in your recipe or serve as is on hot toast.

Cream: mix the cream and truffle in a glass mason jar. Close lid and refrigerate.  

Oil: grind the truffle in olive oil.  Pour into a glass mason jar. Close lid and refrigerate for 48 hours. 

Cheese: cut a brie or camembert in half horizontally, cover the bottom half with slices of truffles, close the brie, seal with cellophane wrap and leave in a cool place until served or used in your recipe.

Egg: refrigerate eggs and truffles in a glass or ceramic container with a lid. The egg shell is porous so the aroma of the truffle will penetrate and infuse the egg.

COOKING WITH TRUFFLES

La brouillade aux truffes:

The recipe was inspired by Jacky the original chef of the Bistro de France in Apt would make us a brouillade using the fresh truffles sold in the café.  He would arrive at the table, copper pot in hand and shave the truffles over the brouillade.  My favorite meal, at once luxurious and rustic.  Simply delicious with a glass of red wine and fresh bread.  

-3 eggs (infused with truffle aroma), 1 tbsp of butter and 20g of truffle per person

Whisk the eggs with salt and pepper.  Add butter and grate half of the truffles into the egg mixture. Heat slowly whisking continuously.  As the mixture starts to set forming small curds, remove from the heat and shave the remaining truffles over the top. Serve immediately.

 Discover more about truffles from Nicolas Monnier: day and weekend courses offered during the season. Nicolas Monnier, Les Tavannes, 84490 Saint Saturnin lès Apt.  + 33 (0) 4 90 75 48 81 + 33 (0) 6 07 43 19 95.

Where to buy:

In the Luberon you can buy truffles in Menerbes at the Masion de la truffe et du vin, a beautiful 17th century building with a colourful history and a commanding view of the Luberon. During the season you can buy them fresh, out of season there are truffle products for sale.

Or you can buy truffles at the market.  One of the oldest truffle markets is in Apt where I have successfully bought truffles over the years.  During the season go to Place de la Bouquerie, in front of the Bistro de France and choose from 4-5 stands selling truffles at the Saturday morning market.  

 We make it a tradition to visit the Christmas truffle market in Menerbes, on the last Sunday in December.

 Further afield are the truffle markets in Carpentras (Friday mornings) and in Richencheres on Saturday mornings.  Richencheres is known for its ‘la messe de la truffe’ on the fete of Saint Antoine every year on the third Sunday of January. The truffles are then sold for auction to benefit the church.