Christmas season in Provence: les santons et les creches

A favourite Christmas pastime is to visit les crèches de Provence, in which clay figurines called santons recreate the nativity scene surrounded by the full village life of Provence.

Les santons came into popularity during the French Revolution when public nativity scenes were banned. They enabled villagers to recreate the nativity scene in their own home and the inclusion of santons based on real people from the village helped everyone feel they were part of the Christmas story.

The tradition has lived on and today most provençal homes will have a crèche at Christmas, lovingly composed of santons collected year after year and handed down through the generations. Some village churches, like the Eglise Haute à Bonnieux, showcase immense crèches, visited by thousands each year.

While we do not create a crèche in our home, my husband takes great delight in seeking out ever more beautifully crafted santons and we have now started collecting vintage santons habillés. As soon as the Christmas season starts our beautifully sculpted and clothed figurines start to appear around the house: l’homme avec le chauffe-lit; Le fagot et la fagotte; la femme a l’ail; la fileuse; Don Camillo; le notaire; le Berger; la boulanger; l’aveugle et son fils; and many more. Each year we buy a new santon at Christmas and we keep our eyes in the brocantes for new santons to add to our collection.

You can buy santons all year round from the local artisans, called santonniers, or visit la Foire aux Santons de Marseille, between mid-November and January 6. It is the oldest market for santons de Provence and showcases over 30 santonniers. You will also find individuals stands and the marches de noel in the Luberon villages.